Report on our trip to Trans-Siberian Railway (Moscow-Vladivostok) May 2017 | RMT

Report on our trip to Trans-Siberian Railway (Moscow-Vladivostok) May 2017 recently one of our guides Alexander Nikonov made a single trip on a motorcycle along the route

Report on our trip to Trans-Siberian Railway (Moscow-Vladivostok) May 2017

Recently, one of our guides Alexander Nikonov made a single trip on a motorcycle along the Moscow-Vladivostok route. Every day he published his notes and observations, talked about the quality of roads, the presence of gas stations on the highway, sights and weather. We collected all his posts and notes in this article. This information is confident will be useful to everyone who has gathered on a journey along the same route.

If after reading you have questions, write to Alexander by mail [email protected]. Information about our tours, including the Trans -Siberian tour, you can always see our website in the section –

Day 1-2. Moscow – Nizhny Novgorod – Kazan

Two days of my journey passed. The weather is super, so that too. I already miss my wife, of course, but this is normal)) First, I want to divide with you my thoughts how to travel to Vladivostok and what in no case can I do.

Let's start with prohibitions. Guys, never, under no circumstances, do not need from Moscow to Kazan and continue to go along the M-7 Volga. Dumb, boring, loaded truck track. If you count the trucks to Kazan, then after a thousand you can go astray. It seems that trains do not go here, ships do not swim, planes do not fly. How to ride? From Moscow along the Shchelkovo highway to Kolchugino, then Yuryev-Polsky, Suzdal, Shuya and Nizhny Novgorod. Every city has something to see. In the lower one, it is worth linger with an overnight stay, the city has a lot of interesting things in the city.

Next, through Mari-El, we go to Kozmodemyansk, there is a ferry crossing, it goes every hour, 90 rubles, swim 20 minutes. On this shore and in the Ethno-Museum of the Mari. Dalz a little along the highway with a race to Sviyazhsk to Kazan. There are enough of these 150 km to get a buzz from the trucks. Kazan is also not one day for a good city. It is best to go from Kazan to Izhevsk through Arsk, then on Baltasy where you can go to the Siberian Trut Museum, and then we leave for the Vyatka Polyany and Izhevsk. From the pine tree to the kiznera there will be a plot of 20-25 km rolled grader, but the rest of the good asphalt, beautiful views, there are no trucks at all.

And Izhevsk is a fantastic Museum of Kalashnikov, where you can shoot from machine guns, machine guns, sniper rifles. The toilet, by the way, in the male museum, is not provided for the toilet on the toilet, real Rimbae will cope. )))

Day 3-4. Izhevsk-Yekaterinburg-Tyumen. Something about 1200 km in two days.

Here is a map,, but Google does not quite correctly show some sections, he simply does not know that there are roads there. ))

Bright, positive and rich days. But first things first. Having left Izhevsk in the morning, the first stop was in Votkinsk at the Tchaikovsky Museum.Further, the city of Tchaikovsky and hydroelectric power stations on the Kama River, here is the museum of the old-land peasant. From there I went to Elovo, and then to the Os. Each village has several very beautiful temples, all of red bricks, local history museums, fantastic nature, interesting asphalt and dirt roads. The asphals are everywhere good, in general no traffic and cool nature are exactly the roads on which the pleasure gives pleasure.

By dinner, I went to Kungur and visit the pearl of the Pemic Territory of the Kungur ice cave. Then he drove a little along the highway, received a dose of negativity from the movement of trucks with constant overtaking and went to Krasnoufimsk to go around the federal. The road from art to Druzhinino is just a fairy tale. Turns, ascents, perfect asphalt, just some alp. Well, the mountains, of course not, but nevertheless. He drove. At some point, a guy on the BMW S1000RR swept to the meeting, the locals apparently ride.

I wanted to drive along the federal highway 70 km to Yekaterburg, but it was not there. I went on the track and rested on the cork of the truck. The feeling was that with the Alps I went to the Moscow Ring Road at the rush hour. Complete P#Zadd. Somehow he darkened before the first congress and went on secondary roads, I was ready for anything, just to go into the highways. As a result, he reached Yekaterinburg. The city did not particularly like the city, nervous drivers, everyone is in a hurry somewhere, the asphals with the pits, in the suburbs of the trucks in the left lanes are not inferior to the road, some kind of damn. After a calm and measured ride in Tatarstan, Udmurtia and the Persmian Territory, it was not very comfortable. Anyway. The city itself is beautiful, many good restaurants. There are a lot of motorcyclists, the weather is +23 degrees, good, warm.

On this day I was on my feet for almost 15 hours, this is, by the way about the past post, where I wrote about the student Trans -Siberian Railway. The first day I was driving Moscow-Kazan 14 hours, Kazan-Izhevsk 11 hours, the third day is again 15 hours on the road. If you think that it is easy and after 35 years everyone is ready to travel at this pace, then I assure you that it is simply physically difficult. On federal routes, all days could be almost twice as quickly to get to the end points, but what's the point? I personally like to travel, go with beautiful secondary roads, albeit longer, but how many interesting things you see along the way. You don’t see anything other than gas stations on the highway. And here is such a variety of species.

Fourth day It began with a visit to Ganina Pit, a male monastery, which was founded in the early 2000s in honor of the family of Nicholas II killed by the Bolsheviks. Let me remind you that in Yekaterinburg they were shot, the sovereign himself, his wife and five children, plus their doctor, maid and several more people, and in Ganina Yama their bodies wanted to hide, dousing with gray acid. Beautiful, I bought gifts there to my relatives and friends, I wonder what will reach Moscow from this?))))

From Ganina Yama I went to Irbit. It was raining on the left in the Perm Territory, but the sun was shining from the direction of Tyumen. Quickly slipping a light rain arrived in the motorcycle capital of Russia. Spent a couple of hours at Motodom with the guys, listened to stories about the Urals and other Russian motorcycles. I was offered to stay here for a couple of days, ride around the neighborhood on rare motorcycles with sidecars, there are tents, everything you need for outdoor recreation, but time was not allowed. We will come back here, but now we need to move on.

From Irbit he went to Yelan, Gorodishche and then went to Tyumen. Google does not even know such villages, thanks to paper maps and Yandex, as well as my support team in the person of Olesia Nikonova and Nikolay Zavorzaev for suggestions on the route. In Elani, I had lunch at a bus stop with smoked chicken and a piece of sausage bought in a store. After yesterday's 1,800 rubles for dinner at the Pate restaurant in Yekaterinburg, today's lunch cost me 100 rubles))) You won't dine like that all the time, but there is some road romance in it.

The roads are excellent everywhere, 95% new asphalt, the remaining 5% are a few patches and sometimes there are joints, but the GS 80-100 is quite comfortable to ride. Once again I will say that the views are very beautiful, photos from the phone are not transmitted, here you need a professional camera with exposure to capture distant landscapes. The Tyumen region met with ideal roads, everything is well-groomed, clean. Pleasant region. Yes, and Tyumen itself is a cool city, like Kazan. Everything is very European. I left my things at the hotel and went for a walk on the embankment. Today it's only 10 hours on the road, a rest day ..)) Tomorrow the road to Omsk.

Day 5. Tyumen – Omsk, 630 km

It seems to be nothing special, but it was not there. But I'll start from the previous day. I really liked Tyumen, a beautiful, well-groomed city. And the roads in the region are good and generally very clean and pleasant. No road repairs, curb replacements and My Street programs like in Moscow. Everything is already done and everything is already good. Impressions of the city are the most positive, a photograph of the Tyumen embankment in the evening as proof. Well, then May 21 came. I woke up at 3:50 and seemed to sleep well. I have long noticed that if you do not drink or smoke a hookah and go to bed around 22, then you get enough sleep much faster. Checked email, Facebook comments, tried to get some more sleep, but couldn't. It was already light and warm outside, and without thinking twice, I decided to hit the road.

It is generally accepted that there is only one road from Tyumen to Omsk, and this road is along the federal highway, that is, again trucks, a flat straight line and boring and dull driving in a stream of cars with monotonous lane changes for many hours in a row. Well, it seems to be true, but not really. There are several other ways to get to Omsk. The most interesting thing is to go down near Zavodoukovsk and go through Armizovskaya to Berdyugye and further to Ishim. From Ishim, secondary dirt roads can be reached to Omsk itself.

But this route has a few buts.Firstly, Garmin, Yandex and Google do not know these dirt and secondary roads. They are on paper maps. Secondly, 600 km on such roads and on paper maps is another 12 hours minimum. Well, it’s desirable to have more aggressive rubber here and it’s better to ride with someone, otherwise you can drop in somewhere so that you won’t get out later. I initially considered this option for myself, but then I decided to abandon it, on the fifth day of the journey without rest it is too difficult. I decided to go along the highway, “relax” at the same time to see what is there now with traffic.

But I did not want to go with trucks at all. What to do? The solution is very simple. I think many of you know that trucks are parked for the night not far from large cities, 50-70 km away at special sites where there is a motel, parking, shower, service station. Truckers usually get up at 6 in the morning, have breakfast, get ready for the road and around 7 trucks go to the track. In order not to get into the stream of trucks, you need to leave early and overtake them all while they are sleeping, preferably with a margin, so as not to catch up. After all, they travel for 5-6 hours without stopping at 100 km/h, and we constantly drink coffee, go to the toilet, fill up, take a picture, or go to the monastery in the direction of travel. The result is a constant game of overtaking. Not only do we leave by train, who thinks that leaving at 7 is early, you are mistaken, but we also slow down constantly for 10-15 minutes.

I left 5 more, and for the first 3-4 hours I was driving all alone. There was no one. All the trucks from Tyumen were behind me, all the trucks from Omsk had not yet managed to overcome the oncoming distance. Rare passing or oncoming cars. Everybody sleeps. And in the meantime, the sun rose beautifully on the left of the horizon, warming me with its rays more and more, I breathed clean Siberian air and enjoyed driving along a completely empty track, making plans for the future and remembering the brightest events of the previous days. Words cannot describe how beautiful it was. It is for such early departures and such a road that a motorcycle is needed.

Of the interesting things on the way, I still could not resist and drove to Ishim. By the way,

300 km from Tyumen to Ishim flew by unnoticed at all. The city is old, calm, there are many interesting buildings, a beautiful church of the 19th century has been preserved, an interesting museum of local lore. After Ishim, some kind of sea appeared to my right. At first I didn’t understand what it was, but then it turned out that Kazakhstan every year dumps water from some kind of dam or dam and floods the region. There was a flood this year, they made fortifications and embankments to protect houses. All the fields and dirt roads that could theoretically reach Omsk are now under water. So the idea of ​​a trip along secondary roads would not have worked out in any case))) After Ishimi, I also drove to Lake IK. Here in the summer you can swim and look at military equipment at the memorial to our soldiers.

To Omsk, the last 150 km I traveled with trucks. Once they stopped the traffic police, after a short trial, I realized that I really violated and asked for an indulgence, which was granted to me. Having paid off all sins, he went on his way.Omsk met us with a not very attractive stella with the name of the city at the entrance and the weather at +30. I did not expect that it would be so hot in Siberia, to be honest. I checked into a hotel, went to the bathhouse to wash and warm up my muscles a little, which had become sore during the five days of travel. In the bath I thought I would be alone, well, who will go to the bath in Siberia after a harsh and long winter in such heat. No matter how. Overwhelmed, took the last free locker. Oh, Siberians, harsh people, in such weather in the bathhouse to collect a full house.

In the evening I met with friends of my friend. The guys live in Omsk, travel on motorcycles, mostly in Europe, but I think after our conversation they will now begin to travel around Russia. We sat very cool, thanks for dinner and I'm waiting for you on one of our tours, there are many options for where to go, from Sochi and Crimea to Karelia. Well, Trassib of course …))

Day 6. Omsk – Novosibirsk

Initially, the route was long, but interesting, 836 km, practically without leaving the federal highway. Like this The day was remembered for the fact that everything did not work out as planned, and for several interesting insights

First, what went wrong. Having left Omsk, where, surprisingly for such a large city, there are bad roads, well, something like in Lipetsk, that is, with joints, without markings and sometimes with pits, but there is a poor region and there is nothing but subsidized agriculture, and here is a large industrial center. So from Omsk I went by secondary roads to Nizhnaya Omka. But I didn’t drive far, about 70 km from the city, since the roads, although paved, are all in waves, periodically with patches, hard joints, sometimes pits. You ride constantly bouncing, periodically in a stance and in tension, as if you didn’t catch another hole. In my head, an inner voice repeats that in Omsk, as in principle in other neighboring cities, there are none of the spare parts. It's hard to even buy tires. Since we will definitely not go on such roads with our foreign tourists, at some point I decided to return to the track. There is little pleasure, a motorcycle is a pity, why endure? This is the first time that secondary roads were of such poor quality that I decided to go federal.

Having driven a little along the highway to the Novosibirsk region, options appeared to go to country roads, which, on paper maps, led straight to the city. The roads were found, but I did not dare to go on them. Different types of primer, many of them 30-70 km long, that is, it takes 1-2 hours to drive and it’s not a fact that it won’t end at the end, it won’t run into a swamp or impassable mud. Even before Rosneft (hello to colleagues), even then the primer led. )) Yes, and for the sixth day in a row it is hard to go, fatigue has accumulated, I did not fit into these adventures.

Many times I tried to go around the federal highway, but each time I returned to the track. Trucks, by the way, are much smaller than near Kazan.

From the interesting insights of the day:
1) I saw a tractor mowing the lawn along the highway 400 km from Omskva and 200 km from Novosibirsk.I was sure that only the Moscow Region officials, as well as some governors from nearby provinces, suffer from such insanity. But no, in Siberia they also bake about the appearance of grass near the highway. Perhaps I will now make a great evil, but I will voice the thought that has long been spinning in my head. Our officials need to start cutting trees along the tracks, and indeed in the forests. And then ugly like that, you are going from Moscow to Voronezh, and along the highway and in the nearby forests of birches, linden, aspen, oaks, etc. The devils grow like, leaves stick out in different directions, branches. There is no harmony, order. We must cut them. It is clear that it is difficult, it is clear that it is expensive, that every fall the result of your work goes under the tail, but what else to do with regional budgets? To mow grass and cut trees, it is not expensive to build.

2) I was surprised to realize that Siberia, apparently, is a big swamp. Well, at least how much was always driving from the left today and to the right of the road was water. Maybe I'm mistaken and it just remains of the snow, but so far it seems to me that everything is just like that. Even the forests were in the water. And if so, then it is clear where so many oil and mosquitoes are, with which they scared me all the time. Both like this environment loves. For some reason, Siberia seemed to me a relatively arid and harsh place

3) On the highway stood very cool anti -naval chambers, concrete bases, and anti -jacket glasses. I have never seen such before. DPS has never seen

4) for a long time I did not let go of the idea that in the Omsk Territory, with its budgets, the largest refinery in the country (Gazpromneft), oil -excretion and heavy engineering should somehow lure Sobyanin. In Moscow, he made a lot of good for the first 4-5 years and thank you very much for it, but in recent years it is the same from living. The Moscow government does not know where to spend the city’s giant budgets and come up with all sorts of programs, every year everyone is digging, planting, shifting asphalt four times a year. Sobyanin with an office needs to send to Omsk to work. Even not, first they need to be sent to the Ostashkov, then Udomlya, then the whole Tver region. But for them this is a year, no more. Then they can be sent to the Mari-El Republic. The Mari for good roads, if they will be done at least once every five years, and not four times a year, will be canonize our measure during his lifetime and in honor of him they will come up with a new pagan idol/Abelisk, they will put him on all squares and streets and will worship him . In Ostashkov and Udomle, in principle, he will also become a saint during his lifetime, having made asphals there for the first time in 15 years. Well, then to Omsk he will reach and make roads here as in the Tyumen region. And again, the Moto BMW dealer will open here, which worked at one time for two years and closed. It is not surprising with such roads.

In the evening he arrived in Novosibirsk. I have not yet understood what my attitude to the city is.He's kind of semi-industrial. The roads are good, but there is a lot of rubbish. Good restaurant SiberiaSibir if anything in the center.

What a political post turned out. Well, what was in my head, I wrote it. Unfortunately, there were no temples and monasteries today. I will not write about the beautiful nature, otherwise it is possible to repeat one phrase in each post. Tomorrow I'm going to Tomsk.

Day 7. Novosibirsk – Tomsk, 300 km

A lot of things happen every day, I do not have time to write. So the seventh day, Novosibirsk-Tomsk. 300 km.

On this day, I had a recovery training, well, that is, not a training session, but a trip. All the previous days I traveled much more, and here it is only 300 km. In Novosibirsk, I slept well, stuck in the mail for a couple of hours, answering dozens of letters that I had only managed to look through before. I looked at myself in the mirror, a little overgrown, beard / stubble. I thought that something was missing to complete the image, I decided to go buy a rear balloon and tie it to the bike. So you can immediately see that a person is going at least to Magadan, and maybe even around the world. Agree that the look of a motorcycle with spare tires adds brutality right?)))

Okay, just kidding, in fact, my rubber began to run out surprisingly quickly. Before that, I went to Metzeller and he walked 15-18 thousand km, but now he switched to Heidenau and she is already 10, on the verge. Having bought a balloon at the same time, I drove to the Novosibirsk BMW dealer, they don’t have rubber yet. The guys opened a motorcycle business that year, they have oils and filters, they promised to start tires soon. I drank coffee from them and went to Tomsk. Novosibirsk, by the way, left a neutral impression. +32, heat, traffic jams, like in Moscow. But in general, the city is beautiful, in the summer with a group we will spend the whole day here with a sightseeing tour of the city, then we will get to know the city better.

I went to Tomsk by the left secondary road. There are only two options, the highway and the left road. The asphalt was good at first, but after 100 km there were joints, pits. In principle, it is tolerable, but after Tatarstan, the Perm Territory and the Tyumen region, I don’t really like to ride like that anymore. That day, for the first time, I thought that, apparently, after the Tyumen region, good paved secondary roads end. Further, if you leave the track, then there will be either broken asphalt (shaking), or dirt roads. And for the first time I began to think that here the F800GS with 21 front wheel radius would be ideal. There was practically nothing of interest along the way. I saw a small forest fire, I can imagine what kind of fires there are in Siberia in the summer when such heat lasts for weeks.

I also stopped by some cafe closer to Tomsk. Wife advised as one of the few places on the track where you can have something to eat. I go and ask:
Me: What to eat?
Man behind the bar: Pelmeni
Me: What else?
Man: I can make tea, coffee.
Me: Everything?
Man: Lemon, I'll find sugar
Me: And what is such a rich choice?
Man: The women are gone
Me: I mean where did they go.
Man: Well, who goes where, one got a job in Tomsk, the second went somewhere on a rotational basis. No one to cook
Me: Ahh, I see. Long gone?
Man: Yes, last August. Since then, only dumplings. How old are you, are they homemade, big?
Me (smiling): Let's have a dozen)))

Here is such a place. Harsh, but overall tasty and of course cheap. What would we do without women?

In Tomsk, in the city center, I was surprised by the sign that motorcycles are prohibited. I remember reading somewhere that in some city motorcycles were generally banned from entering the center, well, I ended up in this place. I went under the sign, there was a hotel, and in general I thought if I’m not like a local and we’ll figure it out. But there were no cops.

But met local motorcyclists. Leaving my things at the hotel, I went to look for a guarded parking lot to leave the bike for the night (you can’t leave it on the street with a wheel tied on top, they will drag it away, and I will change it in Irkutsk only in two days). Aleksey, a local BMW fan, caught me at the crossroads. I immediately called to stay at his house, an empty apartment is standing, there is also a garage there. I refused, I had to go further at 5 in the morning, but we went to have dinner. A very pleasant acquaintance, which, I hope, will grow into a true friendship.

Eighth day. Tomsk-Krasnoyarsk, something about 750 km

Today I slept badly for the first time. They did not give me peace of mind how to go further and what to do with Tomsk. The day before it turned out that the direct road Tomsk-Krasnoyarsk, the first section to Mariinsk about 200 km, is not paved by a third. There is an ordinary dirt road, sprinkled with gravel. After the winter, the road is broken from heavy vehicles, all in pits and ravines. At the beginning of summer, all this will be leveled with a tractor, but what is there now is not clear. And it turns out that the bypass road to Tomsk is not very good (yesterday I wrote about it) and there is no part of the route from Tomsk to Krasnoyarsk. For a tour with a group, this is not an option, not everyone knows how to ride on the ground, it is physically difficult, and very dangerous. The slightest fall, even at low speed, can lead to injury or even a fracture, and this will break the entire tour.

From Tomskva, given the problems with the road, you can refuse. It makes no sense to specially climb into it along the federal highway and go down it. There was an option through Kemerovo, but there the wife said there was nothing to watch at all, a mining town. All evening and all night I thought and weighed the options and finally decided to go down to Yurga and then to Kemerovo. This option seemed to me the most normal. I left as usual early, I arrived in Yurga at 6 in the morning. The track is good, there is no traffic at 5 am)))

I really liked Yurga (well, what else can I say about the place where my wife was born and raised?)). No, really, asphalt is better than in Omsk. Well maintained and clean city. Lots of military. At the exit, I understood the reason – in Yurga there is a tank garrison or a school. There is a T-90 at the exit from the city, as I understand it, the Afghan version, and on the right across the field there are traces of tanks everywhere. Here they have maneuvers and exercises.It would be cool to get here with tourists during such exercises.

I went to Kemerovo by a detour of the “village” road, as my wife called it. He says before the asphalt was normal. And now normal. Novosibirsk, Omsk and Tomsk regions could learn from Yurga in what condition secondary roads should be maintained. Came to Kemero quickly. The city was not at all what I imagined it to be. Not Yekaterinburg or Novosibirsk, of course, but quite a normal industrial city. There are very good roads in the district, the city is expanding, new neighborhoods and interchanges have been built. Varlamov would have liked the concept – low buildings, wide streets, infrastructure. The new districts left a very pleasant impression.

After Kemero I went to the federal highway and went to Krasnoyarsk. The road to Mariinsk is excellent, with turns and slides, the asphalt is new. Interestingly, there are fewer and fewer trucks. From Moscow to Yekaterinburg, I would say that 7-8 points according to Yandex, from Yekat to Novosibirsk 5-6 points, from Novosib to Krasnoyarsk 3-4 points. Quickly rushed to Mariinsk. I ran into the museum-monument of SibGULAGs. Then there was a boring and dull road to Achinsk. Almost fell asleep while driving. If anyone thinks that you can’t fall asleep while driving a motorcycle, you are mistaken, how else can you)) From Mariinsk you could go down to Sharapovo, but there is also 50/50 asphalt / dirt, it’s dangerous to ride alone. Yes, it's long and hard.

Achinsk turned out to be the most terrible city during the whole trip. A cloud of smog over the city was visible for a couple of tens of kilometers. Factories are smoking in the city, a loaded railway train was driving in the center, throwing out clouds of black smoke as if on coal. Kamaz vehicles are everywhere, on the streets there is dirt, garbage, dust, sand. Really the city is NOT for life. If I were a level 8 yogi, I would hold my breath for 15-20 minutes and drive through the whole city without breathing at all. But I'm only a 2-3 level yogi, I breathed the Achinsk air 5 times. For some reason, the thought came to mind that here it is necessary to send our corrupt officials into exile. Previously, they sent to Chita, but today it would be possible to go to Achinsk.

Without unnecessary stops, he left the city and, having driven a little along the highway, went down to Abakan and Divnogorsk. What happened next, I can not describe in words, the photos do not convey even a small part of the emotions. Fantastic Upper Sayan Mountains, perfect serpentine mountain roads, no traffic at all. Having gone down, I found myself on the Yenisei. This is the river, this is the power. It is a must to visit here. I think in Altai and Tuva, where we are going next time, such landscapes are everywhere.

A beautiful road along the majestic Yenisei entered Krasnoyarsk. The city stretched out along the river, many new houses, interchanges. Half of the asphalt is removed, not cool, but soon, apparently, it will be new, good. The Olympics would be held here and there would be a second Krasnaya Polyana. The potential of the place is enormous.

I managed to stop by the local BMW motorcycle dealer before sunset, looked at several hotels for our tours and went to the hotel to sleep.Today I was driving for 15 hours, tomorrow promised to be just as intense, the plan was to drive 1100 km to Irkutsk in one day.

Ninth day. Krasnoyarsk – Irkutsk. 1100 km.

The most difficult day of all time on the road. Firstly, of course, fatigue has accumulated, I have been eating for nine days without rest. Plus the heat in Siberia. I expected +15-20 at the end of May, I was ready for +5 and even frosts (and they will continue, judging by the forecast), but not +30. Specially noticed at 20:00 the temperature on the highway 100 km from Irkutsk was +29. Only by 21:00, as the sun set, did it drop to +26. But first things first.

Left at 5 am from Krasnoyarsk. There is only one road to Irkutsk, so there was no choice of how to go. The first 100 km were quite boring, but then the track began to wind, hills began, forests gave way to fields, meadows, rivers and swamps. I was expecting a road like the M-4, boring, flat, monotonous, but in fact it turned out to be more interesting, even though it was a federal highway. In the Irkutsk region, the route begins to pass through small authentic villages, just like in the photographs about the outback in Russia, with completely wooden houses and barns already blackened by time. Beautiful.

It is interesting to perceive the scale of our country. You go like this day after day, but it does not end. We have a lot of land and 99% is not occupied. I think, taking into account new technologies and autonomy, the development potential is huge. The asphalt for the first third of the way was excellent. True, the valiant road services cut out pieces of asphalt in several places and forgot to put up warning signs, drove well at 120 km / h and managed to slow down at the last moment. To fly into these pits at 150-180 km / h is the loss of a pair of spokes, or you can bend the disk. In general, my advice to anyone who is going to travel along the Trans-Siberian Railway is never to drive more than 120-130 km / h. Dangerous track, many places, flying in which you can end the journey.

From what I have already traveled, and this is about 6 thousand km, the federal highway to the Tyumen region, inclusive, is excellent, secondary roads are good. Starting from the Omsk region, the federal highway is good, but more often there are pits, cut asphalt, bumps, joints, rough patches, secondary roads killed or unpaved. In the Irkutsk region, on the federal highway, there are sections where asphalt is like on secondary roads in the Omsk region, there are no secondary roads, only primers.

From today's life hacks
1) At railway crossings, always slow down, in some places the rails protrude very strongly, at speed you will break through to the disk
2) Bad sections of the road are best driven in a rack, this greatly unloads the suspension. On my 1200 adventure, the difference was very noticeable whether I was sitting or standing
3) The speed is 120-130 km / h no more, you will not have time to slow down in front of the pits

While driving to Irkutsk, I finally realized that for tours along the Trans-Siberian Railway I need an F800GS with an R21 front wheel, or on similar motorcycles from other companies. My R1200GS is heavy and the R19 wheels are small.Next year we will only do tours with the F800GS.

We return to the events of the day. On the way there were again places with forest fires, mostly grass was burning, but in some places the trees were smoldering. Approximately in the middle of the way there were several places where they sold tinctures, berries, herbs and roots. I thought for a long time about the topic of tincture on vodka, but in the end I decided not to buy it. Now I just don’t have time to drink it, but in the summer you can try it with a group. But it's creepy as hell. Have you had experience trying this? We won't get drunk all on the tour?

It's funny that at almost every gas station they ask me how much such a motorcycle costs. When I say about 500 thousand rubles, everyone is like “Ooh, how expensive.” Moreover, it is understandable when a security guard at a gas station with a salary of 7 thousand rubles and an old six asks. But when truckers do this is surprising. 95% of trucks are good modern foreign cars, there are no old Kamaz trucks on the highway. That is, they drive cars for 5-15 million rubles, this does not surprise them, but a motorcycle for 500 thousand rubles is “Ooh …”. It is clear that these are not their cars, but still.

He arrived in Irkutsk closer to 23. Initially, he agreed to visit Dima Yaskin for barbecue and hookah, but he was so tired during the day that they rescheduled the meeting for the morning. I missed a good dinner, but I didn’t have the strength after the 18 hour drive. Tomorrow, on the 10th day of the trip, I will have my first day off. Uff..))

10-11 days of travel. Day off in Irkutsk and road to Ulan-Ude, about 430 km.

On Friday I had the only day off for the entire tour. My condition is well illustrated by a photo with a cat, it was cool to just lie down and do nothing.

There were no plans for the day. Go to breakfast with Dmitry Yaskin and change the rear tires. When I woke up, I went to visit. Two hours for coffee and cookies flew by unnoticed. Interesting conversation and pleasant company. For myself, I took out a few basic things. Firstly, since 2014, there has been an influx of Chinese on Baikal, many hotels are bought out entirely in winter by Chinese travel agencies. Approximately as ours used to do in Egypt and Turkey and then charters settled there. The same thing, but here there are buses with Chinese, 40-60 people each. Listvyanka in the summer is a little Shanghai. Everywhere hieroglyphs and crowds of these little people. The village itself is 3 km of the coastline where you find yourself like in the market.

On Olkhon, the situation is about the same. Tranquility, silence and nature, which Baikal and specifically Olkhon has always been famous for, do not exist today. That is why the guys this year open their yurt camp on Olkhon, 15 km from the nearest settlement. Full automony, your own cook, food on the fire, guitar in the evening, conversations on the lake. You can invite local shamans or musicians. During the day, excursions to the surrounding areas are organized. This is exactly the format of recreation that I want to show our clients. Pleasure is not cheap, but on the other hand, the offer is unique. I hope we will agree on the terms and then our groups will live with the guys in the camp.

Secondly, this year, due to quad bikers and endurists, all motorcycles were banned from entering the Baikal National Park. So it’s not a fact that it will now be possible to come to Olkhon on a motorcycle. There are options to get permission, but it still complicates visiting Olkhon.

After breakfast I went to change tires. At some point, the keys were needed, I reached into the left “technical” trunk and saw that the chocolates that I put there four days ago when I was in Yekaterinburg and which I was taking to Moscow as gifts to my wife and friends melted in the heat and flowed down the trunk to the bottom. +30-33 was the last four days in Siberia. Here is the month of May. Sorry chocolates. I had to remove and wash the wardrobe trunk, and at the same time finish eating the more or less preserved tiles.

I spent the evening at my laptop, sorting through letters and answering the accumulated SMS and WhatsApp messages. I apologize if I didn't answer right away, I didn't have much time.

The next day in the morning I left in the direction of the capital of Buryatia, the city of Ulan-Ude. My wife wrote in the evening that we were jealous of what a beautiful road I would take. Rightly jealous, the road is really fantastic. And Sergey Viferov also wrote correctly, beyond Irkutsk the coolest thing begins. Beautiful serpentines stretch along Baikal through forests and small passes. Definitely one of the best roads in Russia. Moreover, even when Baikal ends up to Ulan-Ude, you still go through the valley surrounded by mountains and the huge Selenga River flows nearby. And the asphalt is new everywhere.

To all this, it is worth adding that nature is changing very much. Beyond Baikal what begins, who knows? That's right, beyond Baikal begins Transbaikal…))) So, in this region, nature is completely different, here on the physical level one feels wildness and uninhabited places. Trees of a different color, other fields, more rivers, taiga mountains. There are few cars, almost no trucks.

Photos, as usual, do not convey beauty at all, but at least that's how it is. I stopped about fifty times to photograph another river, another mountain, another forest. Very beautiful. On the way they sell hot smoked omul, 100 rubles each. And some grass for 50 rubles. Took a try and that, and that. The fish is delicious, a must try. Of course, not as cool as we did with Vlad, Sergey and Yulia in Zvenigorod. The grass seems to be okay too, it was like a salad ..))

In general, everything is cool with Lake Baikal except for one thing, it is located 6 thousand km from Moscow. Closer to him.

I stopped for a bite to eat somewhere in the middle of the road in a dense forest near a river and a small gazebo with a bench. I sat, ate, returned to the motorcycle and began to enter the addresses of hotels in Ulan-Ude into the navigator, which needed to be viewed. Suddenly, two fishermen with fishing rods come out of nowhere. The first question is “Are you alone?”, Then where are you going, where are you from. I speak with the company and wait for friends, well, we stood and moved on.

I hammer the last address into the navigator, some crumpled type comes out of the bushes to the left with the appearance of a recidivist robber.There is a shabby bag in my hand, in which for some reason I immediately thought there was an ax))) In the other hand, some kind of pink juice in a half. Says, Hey bro, hi. I greet him, but I think to myself, they survived, people come out of the bushes, hello brother. What a f*ck. I'm standing in the middle of the road in the forest, where did he come from? Further the same first question, are you alone? Not how much rushing, not how much it costs, not how many horses – all those standard questions that everyone asked before. Are you alone? I say no, we’re going in a group, I just pulled ahead, I’m waiting for the rest. Now the Surgeon, Mikhey, Lech Drill and Vovchik the Dentist will drive up))) It is worth looking at the motorcycle, at me. I quickly put on my gloves, first and forth. Who knows the local Buryats.

Throughout the whole road, somewhere nearby, there was a railway branch of the Trans-Siberian, along which trains constantly run. Having traveled more than half the way, I am firmly convinced that everyone should drive along the Trans-Siberian at least once in their life. No matter what, by train, car, motorcycle, bicycle. This greatly expands the horizons, you get to know the regions, you see the peculiarities of the mentality, the standard of living, nature. And in general, we must know our country.

I’ll add more about knowing my country. In Irkutsk, I stayed at a hostel. The hostel was full, but there were no ours, only foreigners – the Dutch, Germans, Belgians, Koreans, Arabs and even a Negro. 25-35 average age. And in the evening in the hall there are conversations about who and where was on Baikal, who will go farther. Most often heard Mongolia and Ulaanbaatar. It is interesting that in our time of technology and opportunities, more and more people want to run away from them, hide. A lot of people are tired of megacities and, as a result, everyone is attracted by Mongolia. It beckons with its wildness, because there is nothing there. No roads, no shops, no internet. But this is exactly what attracts travelers from all over the world. Well, we have about the same thing beyond Baikal. ))

But back to the road and Buryatia. Ulan-Ude has good asphalt, but in general the city is dull. If the crisis is noticeable anywhere in Russia, it is here (in Moscow there are constant traffic jams at the airport and everything is fine in terms of the dynamics of air travel). Many closed places and empty establishments. Cafes and restaurants on Saturday evening until 21 are mostly open. Shops are already closed at 19.00. The locals wear sweatpants.

I found a street near the market where the locals eat. Tasty and inexpensive. I ate soup and local dumplings and went to the hotel to sleep. Tomorrow the road to Chita, the city of the Decembrists

Days 12-14. Ulan-Ude – Chita – Erofey Pavlovich – Blagoveshchensk, about 2250 km

On the way to Ulan-Ude, I thought that there could be no better road. I was wrong. The Ulan-Ude-Chita section is even steeper than the road from Baikal
The first 100-150 km are space views, no traffic and a completely new roadbed. Further, the road began to slowly deteriorate, pieces of the old route began to appear, then they began to appear in thickets and longer in length, then sections with road repairs began, then with road repairs without asphalt at all, everything ended with several kilometers of gravel.But, fortunately, all this also did not last long and normal asphalt went further again. Landscapes like in the north of Mongolia, only the road is a little infrastructure. Very unusual and very beautiful. There are practically no network gas stations on the highway, all local gas stations, some of the Baikal oil companies, omny and something else. My dear Rosneft was only under Ulan-Ude and then in Chita.

I noticed that there are a lot of processes with fire engines along the highway. I don’t know what it means, maybe the Chita firefighters are the best firefighters in Russia? As for the city, the Chita is about 300 thousand people. The city as a whole looks exactly as I imagined it. Severe, a little in the style of the 90s. I hit the local day of the city, so the center was blocked, everyone walks, a lot of drunk, although on such a day it is probably normal. Chita is the only city where I did not even have a thought to leave a motorcycle on the street in a parking lot at the hotel. He drove off to the local thieves shopping center directly to the booth with the guard. At the hotel, the administrator drops the lattice on the recipe at night ..))

The next day I was waiting for a long road to Erofei Pavlovich. Just in case, I’ll tell you that the Amur highway connects Chita and Khabarovsk. It was on it that our president drove in 2012 and it was precisely her that the event was taken for this. After Chita, the next city is Blagoveshchensk after 1600 km, Stot another 650 and Khabarovsk. From Chita to Blagoveshchensk, in fact, there is nothing. Refueling every 150-200 km, a few motels and roadside coffee, with a dozen small villages and villages. All. There is not a single hotel at the Buking in these places. Of the dozen villages that are on the highway, exactly between Chita and Blagoveshchensk there is the village of Erofei Pavlovich. It is named after the famous (everyone knows him?) Of the Russian traveler. In honor of him, Khabarovsk is named, by the way. He was Khabarov Erofei Pavlovich.

So this site usually raises the most question for foreigners. 1600 to go a lot of day, and where they do not know where they do not know. Well, we are Russians, we know. The phones and addresses of local motels were written in advance, I took from Olesya the Koshel contacts of its sign of those places. And I went.

What I want to tell you – wildlife and views continued. There are few people and cars. The gas stations have never seen before, there is only a figure with liters. He turned in one place from the highway to one of the villages – as if he were in Leviathante Zvyagintsev (Teriberka was there). The same landscapes – rusty cars abandoned at home, everything is destroyed and falling apart. The whole street looked at me like a golden body. There were thoughts to stop taking a picture, but decided to leave here quickly.

In Erofei Pavlovich, cold weather (+4), rain and motel Erofei directly on the highway were waiting for me. There was another option in the village itself, but a dirt road that was blurred from the rain, and I would not go there simply. Single number 1,500 rubles, shower on the street in a separate building. There is no Internet, the phone catches, but bad.Downstairs there is a mini-shop and a canteen. Of the guests, some truckers, silently and severely eat or drink. Nobody ever asked me a question. There is nowhere to go, nothing to do.

In Efrofeya, for the first time on my journey, I felt loneliness and sadness for my relatives and friends. Finding yourself alone in such wild places, you begin to appreciate what is taken for granted in a familiar life. I thought about how much I love my beloved wife. We call her every day, but I called and told her about it again. I thought about my parents, to whom I pay little attention. I wrote and promised to come when I get back. I remembered my friends.

Well, then I decided to drink 100 grams of cognac. The mood was to plump a little. In general, I don’t drink the whole trip, so I drank a glass of beer a couple of times, but usually tea in the evening. Cognac was not sold on tap, so I had to buy 0.5 in the store. He poured himself a little and turned on the film In the Forests of Siberia. A 2016 film about a Frenchman who went to live on Lake Baikal. I just left Baikal, so the film went with a bang.

The next day in the morning +6 and clouds. I wore almost everything I had. Three T-shirts, two socks, three pants and a raincoat on top. Cowards, at once I will tell, there were only one. It’s not that I only had one underpants for the whole journey, I just put on one)) Dressed up like a cabbage, I set off. After a couple of hours, a cold front passed and it got warmer. On this day, my mileage exceeded the first hundred thousand km.

On the road I met two motorcyclists. First I stopped to take a picture of the sky, I look at the meeting, the bike is riding. American, John, from Pennsylvania. Russia, Mongolia and Europe are in the plans for three months. Satisfied like that. Now to Ulan-Ude and there to Mongolia, then through Altai and to Moscow. At one of the next gas stations I met Hoku. Japanese, this one is going around the world on the F700GS. How much, I say, will you go. Well, a year somewhere, plus a couple of months. Helmet from a scooter, with plastic saddlebags and a low windshield. Oh, and he will get it in the coming months. I gave a booklet, if anything, I say, write-call, we will help or we will drink beer in Moscow.

Further down the road I met a small deer. It was very unusual. I was driving from a long descent and I saw in the distance someone was running across the track, a small one. Well, I think, okay, until I get there, I’ll hide in the forest. I look after two seconds, he runs back. And I'm already there. It was a pity he was in a raincoat and winter gloves, he couldn’t get his phone quickly, he stopped, reached into his pocket, but did not have time to take a picture. But it was cool. A small one, apparently lost. Bears still dreamed in the forests these two days, but these are most likely glitches ..))

I went to the Vostochny Cosmodrome. They were not allowed into the museum in the village of Tsiolkovsky; an application for a pass must be submitted a week in advance. Foreigners are not allowed in principle. This is a closed museum. But on the other hand, I found a place from where you can go to the observation deck and see the launch complex. Next time with tourists we will definitely go there. The road is generally good today.In places, the road workers spoiled her, of course, but I will write about it separately as if, here without politics.

By evening I came to the Annunciation. A clean and beautiful city. Aspal is good everywhere, China through the river. All buildings on the other side of the river are the Chinese. The city has good wide streets, but there are no cars at all. And there are no people. And in the houses in the evening the light does not burn. It feels like everything is in China. On the other side of the world is more and directly visible that the movement.

Day 15-16. Blagoveshchensk – Khabarovsk – Vladivostok, 1500 km

In the morning I drove about 100 km with quite decent secondary roads in the Amur Region and went to the highway. In general, the region resembles the Krasnodar Territory. After about 200 km, he rested on the Jewish Autonomous Region (EAO). At first he was embarrassed, but then he remembered what was in our country and such a region. He stopped with curiosity, did not imagine what kind of region it was and how it looks – which climate, what kind of people live, what roads, houses. The Buryats were very different from the Siberians, here I thought that it could well be the same. But no, our most ordinary citizens. Their places are very beautiful, something like a mountain Krasnodar, only more wild and green, nothing is plowed, there are few buildings and they are harmoniously inscribed in nature.

When I was traveling along the EAO, it seemed as if you were in the Jurassic Park. The same species, mountains on the horizon, thick greens. Pterodactyls lacked the tyrannosavtors in the sky))) Already arriving in Khabarovsk, he watched the recommendations of his beloved wife what to look along the road, so there were excavations of dinosaurs. I really drove them, but the places are suitable. He stopped to eat in no appearance in an inconspicuous dining room. Tired already from roadside motors for truckers, and I wanted to see the place, maybe I think the kitchen is some kind of unusual. Since everything has already been eaten before me, the choice was small, borsch, puree cutlets, an egg with mayonnaise, a blame and compote. All for 188 rubles. In borscht, the taste was prepared at my school, already nostalgia surged. I didn’t think that I still remember that taste, but it turned out that it was worth trying and everything returned at once.

Well, then Khabarovsk met me with an absolutely fantastic rainbow. I won right into her, as if into the gate. It seems to me that I saw such a rainbow for the first time in my life))) I really liked Khabarovsk, and the bridge across the Amur, and the development of the city, and the roads. The only prices in hotels are high, but this is because there are few of them, and the demand for this region is now large. Nothing, the issue of time, in Moscow there used to be the same situation. Having had a bite and have a little work in the region of the morning, went to bed. Tomorrow I had the last road, almost 800 km to Vladivostok.

I got up at 5:30. I didn’t get enough sleep, but I didn’t want to sleep either. A slightly broken condition was, partly due to the displacement of time zones. All the same, the difference with Moscow, it turns out I went to bed yesterday at 19 Moscow time and woke up at 23:30.The wife only went to bed, but I already got up))) Well, I was scattering the rain outside the window. The weather seemed to say, well, where are you going, stay here, rest, gain strength, look at the city. For some reason I was sure that the last day should be the sun)))

But I was adamant, gathered the will into a fist, dressed and left at 6 in the morning. The road was not particularly remembered, after the Jurassic period in the Yura Park, it was ordinary. Here Putin did not go to Lada Kalina, so the federal highway was like a secondary road in the Tyumen region. There is no traffic, either nothing is carried, or the railway line and the river shipping company are well established.

535 km met a mortal danger to a motorcyclist. After almost three hours of driving on a flat asphalt, when you already get used to speed and habitually enter the turns of 120-130 km/h in the next turn, a piece of asphalt was removed and the pit was covered with brigbling. In the bend, getting on a gravel on a motorcycle is 100% fly off the track. He did not rode well and managed to react. Potentially, the moment is very dangerous.

After another 200 km in the same situation, there was no asphalt on the floor of the strip in the turn. Well, I rode closer to the middle of the canvas, slipped by. Two cars stood a little further at the side of the road, put the spurts, the guys were not lucky. I imagined that I would fly into this pit. Goosebumps.

In general, a little running ahead I want to say that the biggest danger on our roads is the roads themselves. Not drivers who drive quite normally, not bandits, not bad barbells, not weather, not a traffic police (they never slowed down, except for the case, I myself overtook them in violation of the rules), namely the roads. The Moscow-Vladivostok highway 95% consists of excellent aspt, but the remaining 500 km can ruin the whole trip to you. No need much, I caught one good hole and that's it. There is a reserve by car, it is good on the motorcycle if you get off yournia or a couple of spokes, you can decompose so that “I have come to my senses, I don’t remember anything, gypsum”.

Well, let's not about sad. Just remember traveling along our roads that you always need to be on a check. You can go on an ideal highway for three hours, and then there will be 20 meters of holes. And then again the perfect track is 200 km. 150 km to Vladivostok, the road finally began to resemble the federal highway, two stripes, a dividing chipper.

He entered the city in the region of four. Today, today it is a mixture of Shanghai/Hong Kong, Krasnodar and the Japanese colony.
1) When you enter the city, a good, beautiful and dense multi -storey building immediately catches your eye. The city is located on hills, so everything is hilly and looks very beautiful. And the traffic is furious, everyone is going somewhere. After Blagoveshchensk and Khabarovsk, where there are also few people, there is an excess here. As if he had come to Asia
2) driving manner as in Krasnodar. Cut from a traffic light to rush quickly, the bus with you competes in dynamics who is faster, etc.There is no markup. The roads are generally good, but there are very deep potholes and open manholes. Wildly.
3) About the colony – all the crazy traffic that I saw in the city is all the old right-hand drive Japanese auto industry. Left-hand drive cars are one in twenty. Even the buses are all Asian, it is strange that they are left-hand drive, they probably redid it. One gets the feeling that he came not to Russia, but to Japan or China. And in the city, Hyundai Hotel, Bank of China, etc. I'm not against the Japanese car industry, but it would be new. And then after all, they bring us all sorts of junk. At the same time, I understand people, there is no money, and choosing between Lada Granta or a straight-wheeled Japanese, they choose the latter, more reliable and cheaper. I'm just saying that some kind of impression does not remain very much from all this, as if we were being shoved all sorts of rubbish

Well, as befits Shanghai, there are a lot of cafes, restaurants, burger and barber shops, Thai massages and fashion boutiques on the streets.

Day 17

Day 17. Vladivostok

The second day of rest for the whole trip. Having stood up well, I went to the local official dealer of BMW Premier Auto to give the motorcycle for MOT. I met Eugene on the spot, a very pleasant meeting. It's a pity I didn't catch Grigory, who a couple of days ago left with local motorcycle travelers for South Korea to ride motorcycles. The ferry goes around the clock by the way.

I was in South Korea in Seoul in 2003, and then there was already a real city of the future, as I remember now, phones were sold there with LTE and displays on both sides. We didn’t even have 3G then, no one had heard about LTE yet. I'm afraid to imagine what this Seoul looks like now))

Well, back to my journey. General results. I liked the trip very much, at the age of 32 I finally saw the country in which I live. The country is very beautiful and interesting. It is clear that in these two and a half weeks I simply swept through all the main cities with a superficial visit to key attractions, and even those I did not see everything. Yes, and I didn’t look at all the regions, but now I have some kind of picture in my head.

We will go in the summer with groups, we will have a 23-day trip there to catch up. We will have rest stops in Yekaterinburg, Novosibirsk, Krasnoyarsk, Khabarovsk, we will spend three days on Lake Baikal and three more days in Vladivostok. Everywhere there will be local guides and excursions, everywhere we will go to the surrounding sights.

Turned out by the numbers
1) Distance 10,750 km
2) Duration 18 days (15 days on the way, Irkutsk rest day, Vladivostok rest day and one day flight Vladivostok-Moscow)
3) Expenses (approximately)
a. Gasoline 30 thousand rubles
b. Accommodation 15 thousand rubles (mainly hostels, hotels
just a couple of times)
c. Food 25 thousand rubles
d. Ticket Vladivostok-Moscow 30 thousand rubles (buying for a couple
You can take months ahead for 13k, but for a week
when they began to watch direct tickets for 50k, and for 30k
this is with a transfer in Novosibirsk)
e. Any other 10 thousand rubles
f. Maintenance on a motorcycle (oils, pads, tires) 40 thousand rubles

In general, roughly 150 thousand rubles for 18 days.True, we also need to add to this the sending of the motorcycle by train to Moscow, and this is another 25-30 thousand rubles, but in my case we have a client who is ready to drive the reverse Trans-Siberian alone, so the motorcycle will soon return under its own power.

I can’t help but warn everyone who is just thinking about a similar trip – please don’t repeat my route. I had a work trip, a scout tour, I went to see roads, hotels, restaurants and gas stations before going with a group this summer. I deliberately drove for ten days without rest, then a day of respite and another six days on the road. This is not a vacation, this is not a trip for your own pleasure, this is a business trip on a tight schedule. We have a tour to Karelia in three days, I had to return.

If you want to travel the Trans-Siberian, plan about 25 days one way. Make stops in all major cities, be sure to spend 3-4 days on Baikal, and preferably not in Listvyanka, be sure to spend 2-3 days in Vladivostok. Well, if you live not in hostels, but at least in simple hotels, get ready that this is another 50-60 thousand rubles on top. Plus, 25-30 thousand rubles will go on excursions. Plus, these additional 7-8 days for food are another 15-20 thousand rubles.

In general, 300 thousand rubles is a normal budget for a 25-day trip along the Trans-Siberian Railway with hotel accommodation and a cultural and educational program.

It is definitely not cheap, but on the other hand, for a trip that lasts almost a month, which you will then remember all your life, is not so expensive. The Trans-Siberian is a landmark road, like Road 66 in the USA or the Trans-Canada Highway in Canada. No one says that you need to take a month every year and spend 300 thousand rubles on a trip, but once in a lifetime you can afford such a trip. Having saved up money, taking a vacation in advance, planning a vacation in Israel for my beloved wife in advance visiting relatives (with children at sea, who cares)))

Finally, thanks to everyone who read and commented. Thank you for your words of encouragement, advice and guidance. I remind you that we are going this year Moscow-Vladivostok on July 20, we have 4 foreigners in the group. In principle, we can still take two people, but only on our own motorcycles and so that they know English so that everyone can communicate with each other.

And then we have a return tour Vladivostok-Moscow on August 20th. There are 3 Australians in the group so far. We can rent a motorcycle for the return tour, most likely there will be an extra one, or maybe two. We live in hotels, excursions and all things, so at prices see above how much it will cost approximately)))

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More beautiful and memorable adventures for everyone. And see you on the road!